With An Expedition Cruise Through Deep Patagonia and Around Cape Horn
We left Ecuador for our next stop in Chile. I was looking forward to this next leg in our adventure because it would include my first cruise. Granted, it would be on a smaller ship with other adventure seekers. But I wanted to see if this would be a mode of transportation Tom and I could utilize, possibly for moving between continents and longer journeys. Several bloggers and vloggers I follow have used repositioning cruises as a replacement for long flights.
It turned out to be a fun and thrilling experience. Our trip through deep Patagonia was awe-inspiring and exhilarating. The expedition cruise we took with Australis lasted four nights and five days. Many of our great historical explorers charted these same waters, exploring her coasts and moraines. I thought of Magellan as we made our way through the Strait of Magellan; the HHS Beagle while navigating the waters of Beagle Channel; Charles Darwin when passing by the Darwin Mountains and of course, Shackleton as we traversed Cape Horn. I have read many historical books about these adventure seekers, so to be able to follow some of their routes was an incredible experience that really must be experienced to appreciate.
More than 800 ships have crashed off the shores of Cape Horn and thousands have lost their lives in the unpredictable waters of Drakes Passage. With any expedition or travel journey, there is always some level of risk. I honestly had no fear or trepidation about this journey Tom and I were making. Frankly, I do not have much fear when I travel. It is during travel my fear abates and I feel truly alive. Call me an adrenaline junky, but the exhilaration this experience evoked made me feel like I am was in my element. No fear of death, actually a release from the nagging feeling that life is passing me by as I get closer to my death.
Our journey started in Punta Arenas, a city in Southern Chile. We spent several days in the area before boarding the expedition cruise with 160 other adventure seekers. We had a chance to travel to Torres del Paine, a national park in Chile known for spectacular, soaring mountains and striking blue glaciers.
I really did not know what to expect during this part of our adventure, except we would be taking Zodiacs for land excursions. I wanted to keep some level of surprise so I did not research everything down to detail. We would spend the next four days exploring the moraines and glaciers of this beautiful part of the world.
Our first stop was Gallegos Glacier. It was the first glacier I have actually seen up close and in this type of environment. The crackling and thunder of chunks breaking off into the water is certainly something to witness. The power of these explosions shook the earth and churned the waters. However fantastic, one cannot help contemplating the impact global warming is having on these behemoths. The eco-tourism guides said their size decreases each year, exponentially so in this past decade. Chile has no protection policy in place for them so it is hard to fathom what they will be in a decade or two from now.
On day two, we took the Zodiacs out on a wet and wintery morning towards Pia Glacier. Pia was something to behold and, like the other glacier, dropped chunks of ice in the waters surrounding her during our visit. It was spectacular to witness the small-scale tsunami-like waters around her recede after one of the thundering crackles.
Each day on our cruise included an excursion and a hike through Patagonia. The jutting points of the rugged, snowcapped mountains is postcard perfect. It would take my breath away and leave me humbled with such gratitude to be able to experience everything I was seeing and feeling.
I looked forward to our trip around Cape Horn, an area known for sinking ships and dragging sailors to her depths. Maybe it was the element of danger this evoked, but I truly looked forward to seeing this southernmost area of the World.
As we made our way to the tip of South America in the night, our ship rocked and swayed heavily, waking me and keeping both of us from sleeping soundly through the night. It was unfortunate that as our ship sat offshore from Cape Horn the Captain said we would not be disembarking. The waves were choppy and taking Zodiacs out would prove too dangerous. However, our Captain navigated the ship around the Cape in its choppy waters. It was a once in a lifetime experience that I have to admit left me a little seasick. However, having made it safely around, we were presented with certificates of this accomplishment. I couldn’t help but think of all those sailors throughout history that didn’t make the passage safely.
We arrived the following morning in Ushuaia, Argentina, our final destination. I was somewhat saddened that it was all over.
Two friends we made along the way would be in the town with us for the next four days. I had several chances to run along the shores in this place about 1,000 miles from Antarctica. It was cold but perfect running weather. We also rented a car with our friends Scott and Lisa and visited Tierra del Fuego National Park, known as the “end of the World” because of its remote location at the tip of South America. I could now say I had been to the “end of the World” in Chile and the “middle of the World” in Ecuador.
We said goodbye to our new friends and made our way back up to Santiago, leaving the pristine beauty of Patagonia. It is definitely a place I will visit again, spending more time hiking her popular trails, such as the W Trek.
When we first arrived in Santiago, prior to heading South for our cruise, we had spent five days exploring the city. We were back now to spend more time in this beautiful city with some spectacular views of the Andes.
Like most of South America, Santiago too closes streets on Sundays for Ciclovia and recreation.Getting out with others cycling, running, walking the streets of Santiago is an incredible experience I look forward to each Sunday. Over these past few months, I have been training for the Santiago Half Marathon. Sundays have provided a perfect opportunity to get in my long runs.
During our stay in Santiago, we split our time between Providencia and Vitacura, both higher-end, safer areas within the larger city. I picked these locations because of the safety and proximity to two parks: Santiago’s Parque Metropolitano, also known San Cristobal Hill, and Parque Bicentenario. Both parks have many trails, as does the city of Santiago along its river.
After my race at the end of the month, we head to Buenos Ares, Argentina, the next stop in our South American adventure. I will say goodbye to Santiago, with its perfect weather and great food, with a side note that I will visit here again. A country like Chile requires more than a month to explore and offers so much in return.